Reverse Applique Technique
February 26, 2025
Hi!
Today I thought we’d take a quick look at Reverse Applique. It’s quite a fun way of appliqueing really, and I find you can make intricate designs easier often by appliqueing in this way. You can get some really interesting effects when you layer the fabrics too!
This article is reprinted from a previous Online Quilt Magazine, and was written by Candy Hamilton.
Reverse Applique Technique
Have you found a beautiful appliqued design you’d like to make but the pieces seem so small they might be difficult to handle?
Reverse applique can make this task much more manageable.
Is there a pattern that would be enhanced by the perception of depth instead of the “stacking” system of traditional applique?
The reverse applique technique creates that depth.
Have you been troubled with seam allowances of light-colored patches showing through when appliqued to a darker fabric?
Reverse applique can solve that problem too.
First you will need to “reverse” your thinking about some aspects of applique. Instead of pattern templates with the traditional 3/16 inch turn-under allowance added, reverse applique templates are the exact size of the design.
(Picture from www.crafthubs.com )
Instead of applying one fabric shape on top of another, the shape will be revealed after a section of the top fabric is cut away to expose a layer of fabric underneath.
As with traditional applique, a firmly woven, 100-percent cotton works well because the turn-under allowance can be pressed to retain a crisp fold. You also will need a pair of very sharp, pointed scissors and a color of thread that matches the top fabric.
Many who work with applique choose a No.8 sharp needle for this type of hand sewing.
Determine which shapes will be appliqued in reverse – in other words, which ones will show through when the top fabric is cut away and seamed. Make templates for these shapes.
One method is to trace the outline onto see-through paper, glue it to a stiffer paper such as cardboard, and then cut out the shape. If you have a sheet of see-through plastic, trace around the shape on this material and cut it out.
Position the template on the top fabric and, with a fabric marking pencil, lightly trace around the shape. Pierce the fabric at the center of the design with sharp scissors and, if the shape is wide enough, cut away the excess fabric in the center, leaving 3/16″ inside the line as a turn-under allowance.
Clip into curves and corners within a thread of the marked line.
If you prefer, you can baste down the turn-under allowance at this time. Finger pressing as you sew may work just as well, and it will probably be easier for small openings. If you plan to finger press, basting can be omitted.
Cut a scrap of under-fabric large enough to include the design boundaries plus about 1 inch extra on all sides. Position this scrap under the cut-away area of the top fabric and baste in place approximately 1/3 inch outside the pencil line all around the design.
The turn-under allowance can be finger pressed just before you sew it down. To do this, run the shank of the needle at an angle along the edge of the allowance for about 1 inch, turning under the fabric to the depth of the pencil line. Hold down this fold with your thumb, and finger press in place. Blind stitch this short length; repeat the turn-under procedure for 1 inch and sew again.
Because corners have no seam allowance, you will need to make an extra reinforcing stitch into these angles about two threads deep.
For points that will be sewn down, trim away excess fabric at the tip of the point, leaving approximately 1/8 inch as a turn-under allowance.
First, fold under this blunt end, then fold under one side, then the other, trimming fabric as necessary to keep the allowance under the design.
When all seams of this shape have been secured, turn the piece over. Trim away the under-fabric to leave a ¼ inch seam allowance all around the stitching line.
If desired, trace another design on this under-fabric, cut away excess from the center of this shape, and layer a third fabric under the one just appliqued.
(Remember our “Primrose Runner” pattern from earlier this year?)
Follow the same procedure to create a dimensional design that reveals layers of color in the various designs.
If the pattern includes additional shapes, scraps of other colors can be positioned under these cutaway shapes and reverse appliqued in the same manner, creating a colorful surface.
( Picture from gingerbreadsnowflakes.com )
Whether you are using two fabrics or several more to create your design, reverse applique embroidery can be the technique you use to solve problems of handling small pieces, hiding seam allowances, and creating dimension in your work.
You can of course, do reverse raw edge applique, and this is one of my favourite applique techniques.
(Picture from www.quiltingismytherapy.com – raw edged reverse applique.)
The sample above is with a single fabric behind, or you can add more fabrics if you like, such as with our “Liberty Rose” quilt, with an assortment of Liberty prints behind the cover/top fabric to add colour and depth to this stunning rose window inspired quilt design.
If you haven’t tried this technique yet, then do yourself a favour and give it a go today. Start with a small practice piece if you like, and then build on your skills from there.
Do let me know if you’ve tried this technique, or if you’d like to see it in a future Online Quilt Magazine pattern, and I’ll design a new one for that.
Enjoy!
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love this technique. there are so much possibilities in
I would have this pattern if it could ? Is it possibel ?